The art pueblo of La Palma and our first Workaway


It seems every time I sit down to write our blog I am apologising for the length of time between writing.

Well, it has been another long break before getting you folks up to date with our adventures. Last time we left you we had just finished our time in Copan Ruinas in Honduras. Our next destination was the country of El Salvador where we had a WorkAway arranged with a tourist cooperative called Nubes del (Clouds of) Pital.

For the uninitiated, Workaway is a website which connects volunteers with hosts who offer accommodation and food for help on projects such as organic farms, hostels and many more.

Back to the story. We left Copan at what we thought was the reasonable time of 9am in the morning, which later you will see came back to bite us. We had many bus changes from there. The journey was longer and more tedious than expected even with the beautiful countryside. Suffice to say after 4 long bus journeys we got to the border a lot later than expected and though the border crossing into El Salvador was easy, we had already missed the last bus. After a bit of wandering around we found a crew of tuk tuk drivers. For $5 one agreed to take us to our destination of La Palma where we planned to stay for the couple of days prior to joining our WorkAway.


Some examples of the crazy street art in La Palma
 The beautiful town of La Palma sits between the two highest peaks in El Salvador in the north of the country. The small pueblo has made big waves in the countries history as the origin of the El Salvador art style created by the famous Fernando Llort. The pueblo is fit to bursting with artists and this is reflected in the streets. Murals cover every free space whether it is lampposts, walls or basketball courts there are few where the distinctive style has not touched. We checked into our hotel Posado Real. Although our Lonely Planet guide says that “there’s not much character in the cinder block rooms”, like the town, bright murals of faces, birds and houses made the hotel a pleasant and cheerful place to stay. The next day we explored the town and visited La Semilla de Dios, a local artistic cooperative founded by Fernando Llort. After asking nicely, we were given a tour around the workshops and were able to see the artistic process; from carving the wood, to painting the details.

Freshly painted gifts at La Semilla de Dios
The next day we took the bus to San Ignacio, the next town, and then another bus up the mountain to Rio Chiquito, where we would meet our WorkAway host.
On arriving at Rio Chiquito, the air was noticeably colder, being at around 2400 feet and on the side of the highest point in El Salvador, Cerro El Pital. After realizing we had no way of contacting our host and meeting a couple trying to get to the same place, we met our host, Tobias, and then jumped in the back of his truck for the quick but very bumpy drive down to the farm.

Our cob cottage for the week- one of our tasks
was to paint some cool designs on the front
Although in the past cob was a main building material, in many countries such as the UK, it is no longer widely used. In El Salvador, cob structures are still built but are unfortunately associated with poverty. Therefore, people would much rather build cement block houses which are ugly and expensive. With a rise of interest in sustainable building, cob is making a comeback. Nubes del Pital is creating a cooperative where they teach locals to build cob houses which can then be used as a source of income; as hotels for tourists. Nubes del Pital have several cob cabins which they hire out on AirBnb and Tripadvisor. They also run flower tours and guide walks.
We were lucky enough to have a cabin to ourselves for the week.

The almost finished shed- just needs a roof.
Our main task for the week was to help to build a wattle and daub animal shelter. This will eventually shelter geese, meat rabbits, a worm farm and possibly some goats. Our second task was to create some promotional videos for the website. Have a look at them in the activities page here.


Of course, we had to paint some friendly snakes on the barn!
Our whole experience at Nubes del Pital was fun and instructive. We learnt new skills and did our first bit of honest hard work since we left for Central America. Tobias, Jasmine and their daughter Gabby welcomed us into their home and make us feel part of the family. Both of us hope that we can return there someday and see how the cooperative is doing. For anyone willing to put in some hard graft and get a bit muddy it is worth applying to be a volunteer. Nubes del Pital is also a great place to stay as a guest, with lots of fun activities and a great ethos.

Once our time was finished at Nubes, we decided to join some other volunteers from Italy and El Salvador who planned to visit Suchitoto, a village to the south famous for its cobbled streets and history during the civil war.


Sunset over the mountains
from Nubes del Pital
Boat trip across reservoir to Suchitoto
After a couple of bus journeys, a stop for pupusas (El Salvadors national dish) and an iced coffee in Chalatenango, a boat across Embalse Cerron Grande (a huge reservoir) and a swim in a random swimming pool, we arrived at the town of Suchitoto. We followed a man to a hotel for a room for 4 people for $20 for a night for all and finally sat down with a chilled beer to catch up on all we missed from a week without internet. On side note, this was the first point at which we realised that the UK and our families had been caught in a blizzard, “The Beast from the East”, and we thought the El Pital evenings were chilly.

Painting of an El Salvadorian man
painted on denim jeans
at Cetro Arte Para la Paz

Suchitoto is a colonial town with typical cobbled streets, brightly
painted buildings and a large white church. The next day after saying goodbye to our friends, we headed off to the Centro Arte Para la Paz, a charitable initiative which includes a museum, café, school and art gallery. We watched an interesting documentary on the FMLN, a guerrilla group who eventually became a political party. The museum also featured a map in the traditional art style, of El Salvador, but also included locations of all the massacres and atrocities that occurred during the civil war, mostly if not all, committed by the oligarchic government of that time.

Next instalment will feature Santa Ana, a “proper volcano” and the Ruta del Flores. Hopefully, we won’t need to apologise for another long break.

Feliz Viaje,
Greg & Bryony

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